Winter Rose Gardening
Winter is a time of rest and purification for your rose
garden, but it can be a time of disaster as well if you fail to
take the proper precautions.
While "old garden roses" and own-root species are generally
hardy enough to make it through the winter unscathed, the more
fragile varieties, such as hybrid teas and budded roses, can
have a rough time if they aren't well protected.
Preparing for the ravages of winter should start way back
during the rose selection process. When you're browsing online
and printed catalogs, or admiring the selection in your local
home and garden store, be sure to select varieties that are
capable of withstanding the coldest winter temperatures that
your geographic region is capable of dishing out. If possible,
refer to your area "hardiness zone maps" before you buy.
The key to having your roses survive the cold of winter is
to force them into total dormancy. Stop applying fertilizer by
mid August, and stop dead heading and cutting flowers after the
beginning of October. Allow hips to form to further promote
dormancy.
In extreme cold areas, your goal is to keep the plant frozen
throughout the winter and to prevent them from entering
freeze/thaw/freeze cycles repeatedly. With that in mind, don't
cover your plants too early. Wait until the first hard frost
has struck and the leaves begin to wither and fall. This is a
good time to remove ground foliage and other garden debris from
around the plants that may contain diseases and insects that
will hibernate during the winter and return to feed on your
roses in the spring.
Take a few minutes to prune back the taller roses before you
begin covering the plants for the winter. Avoid doing a
thorough pruning as you'll want to cut back the dead and
diseased canes come spring. This is also a good time to tie the
canes together to protect them from being damaged by the
howling winds of winter.
"Hilling" is a very common winter protection method. You
simply pile a loose and well-drained soil or compost around and
over the rose bush until you reach a depth of approximately
10-12 inches. Be sure that whatever soil or compost material
you use has no excess moisture in it. You want to have only
cold and dry soil for a winter covering.
Once the soil mound has frozen completely, you can cover it
with leaves or hay, or evergreen branches.
Healthy roses, protected by clean and well-drained soli or
compost, have a very good chance of surviving the winter season
if you take the time to properly prepare them.
Once you have put your garden to bed for the winter, take
some time to clean and sharpen your tools and put your shed or
garage back in order so you'll be ready for spring.
As the days grow shorter and the nights grow longer, you'll
be ready to sit back in front of the roaring fire and start
ordering next year's roses from your favorite catalogs and web
sites.
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